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An alphabetical listing of useful facts for the traveller. Body language and sounds Albanians, like Bulgarians, Turks, Indians and a handful of others, shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean ‘yes’ and nod (or rather jerk the head backwards while emitting a bold cluck) to mean ‘no’. Every time you see it done, it’s a pleasant little culture shock. To attract attention, Albanians cluck, hiss, or in more desperate cases honk madly. City names You’ll find that names of cities (and, for that matter, all other nouns) have two different endings in Albanian. One is definite (Tiranë and Shkodër for instance), the other is indefinite (Tirana and Shkodra). Even when the names appear in English text, translators don’t agree on which version to use. Don’t let this throw you. Crime & Safety Besa, or the well-being of honoured guests (you), is a major source of concern and pride for Albanians - a tradition dating back to Illyrian times. Rather than being mugged in Albania, you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Still, it’s a good idea to apply the universal rules: stay alert, hide valuables or leave them at home, don’t wander around unlit areas at night. Be careful where you walk - if there’s not a missing manhole lid, there’s another kind of big hole or bump, bits of sharp metal sticking out of the concrete, garbage or dog poo. And even in cities it can be pitch dark at night away from the main streets. Customs Customs inspection is usually cursory, unless you’re carrying loads of electronic goods. Personal items are not subject to customs fees. Special export permits are required for precious metals and antiques, including coins, books and artwork. Travellers may import the following products tax free. Tobacco: 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos, or 50 cigars or 250gr tobacco; alcohol (if over 18): 1 litre of spirits or strong liquors (over 22% volume) and 2 litres of distilled drinks (under 22% volume) and two litres of wine; 50g of perfume; any medical products for personal use; goods and gifts up to a value of 30,000 lek. Driving & Roads The roads may be improving rapidly, Albanians remain the worst drivers in Europe. Easily distracted, always using one or two hands for talking on the phone and smoking, eager to honk, disrespectful of speed limits, ignorant about the merits of seatbelts, stopping in the middle of the road to chat with a pedestrian relative, and inconsiderate to other road users, they overtake in corners at high speeds in their Mercedes as if they were still riding donkeys. That said, city-centre traffic usually only crawls along at 20-30km/hr with little risk of damage. Before 1991, only Party officials were allowed to own and drive around, and there were only about 600 cars in Albania, many of them deluxe Mercedes and Volvos. When the restriction was lifted, Albanians brought thousands of cars into the country. At the time, there were no traffic regulations, no driver’s license requirements, no traffic enforcement officers and no traffic lights. Much of this has changed, but driving still requires nerves of steel and a good map. The maximum speed is 40km/hr in urban areas and villages, 80km/hr outside these areas, 90km/hr on dual carriageways and 110km/hr on highways. Drivers should have a fire extinguisher, yellow vest and first aid kit in the car, and always drive with the lights on. In mountain areas having snow chains in winter is a good idea. Electricity When it works, electrical current is 220 Volts; you’ll need standard European plugs. Although the situation has improved in 2009, power cuts are still all too frequent in Albania, even in central Tirana, and it often depends on the season (more in winter) and which area of the city you are in. For a reliable supply, try to find out where the politicians have their apartments. Health Although the locals say the water is safe to drink, it’s probably best to stick to bottled water, which is readily available and of excellent quality. Albanian cities can be very dusty, so contact-lens wearers should carry eye drops with them or consider wearing glasses. Up-to-date tetanus and hepatitis-B inoculations are recommended if you want to play it safe and are staying some length of time in Albania, particularly in rural areas. In case of problems, see the list of clinics in the directory. Getting health insurance that covers an airlift to another country in case of serious problems is a good idea. Money The Albanian currency is the lek (plural lekë). The exchange rate is pretty stable at: €1 = 137 lek, £1 = 160 lek, US$1 = 104 lek (July 2013). Banknotes come in denominations of 200, 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 lek, while there are coins of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lek. Although hotels and some other businesses quote prices in euros or dollars, payment is mostly required in lek. When asking for prices in daily life, beware the curious habit Albanians have of telling you the price in ‘old leks’ with an additional zero like it was in the 1970s (so 100 lek becomes 1000 lek). Despite the obvious advantages, this is never used to rip off foreigners, which says a lot about the way visitors are treated in this country. ATMs (‘bankomats’) are easily found in every Albanian town, and do not charge a fee for transactions, though your home bank may. Cash foreign currency can be exchanged at banks and (better) at exchange offices. People who still believe in travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee and a long wait. The money men waving wads of banknotes on Skanderbeg Square offer competitive rates and are generally honest. Spend all your lekë before leaving the country, as they can’t be exchanged abroad. Scams Although the locals are hoodwinked on a daily basis by their own elected politicians and officials, Albania remains refreshingly scam-free for travellers. No horror stories of attacks by pickpocketing urchins, fake banknote schemes, dropped-wallet artists, fake policemen and other phenomena common in tourist cities like Rome, Prague and Amsterdam - though it's always a good idea to be vigilant for pickpockets (especially in crowds and on public transport). Use respectable taxi companies and you'll be all right - best avoid the chaps approaching you at the airport and have your hotel or restaurant phone a reliable taxi (listed in Transport). Phone cards, telephones and other goods for sale on the streets near the post office are probably of dubious origin and quality. Smoking Smoking is officially prohibited in public places such as restaurants, bars and offices, but enforcement is rather weak to say the least, and Albanians generally enjoy sitting in clouds of smoke. On public transport the ban is thankfully always adhered to. Street smarts Here’s a typical Albanian address: Rr. Sami Frashëri, Pall. 20/1, Shk. 1, Ap. 8. And here’s how to decipher it: Rr. means rruga, or street; Sheshi is square. The abbreviation ‘P’ or ‘Pall.’ stands for pallati (building, or block of flats). ‘Shk.’ stands for shkallë (‘entrance’ - since there is often more than one), and ‘Ap.’ means apartment. Unfortunately for guidebook writers and other foreigners, Albanian addresses often do not include street numbers. Instead, a close landmark (like a building, school, ministry, statue, etc) is mentioned for reference, prefaced by pranë (‘near’), or përballë (‘in front of). Even if the landmark is long gone, Albanians will still refer to that using 'ish' (former). The medieval logic behind this is that the locals know where it is and you can ask them, so why bother painting an ugly number on a building when you can sit down and have a nice cup of coffee instead? In this guide we mention these landmarks where necessary, and together with our map references we hope you’ll find your destination somehow. Street terms blloku = apartment block bulevardi = boulevard qëndra = center rruga = street sheshi = square urë = bridge Tipping It’s customary to tip about 10% or round up to the nearest lek note at restaurants, bars and in taxis, but only if the service merits it of course. Visas & Passports Citizens of the EU, most other European countries, US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan can enter Albania without a visa. Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to Albania. Before you set off, confirm your entry requirements at the nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. Check all border requirements at www.mfa.gov.al. There is no longer an entry or departure tax. Your passport needs to be valid for three months after departing Albania. Citizens of the EU, Iceland, Norway, USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand may enter Albania using an ID card, though we recommend still taking your passport anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused.