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Korça's best museum has an excellent collection of 6,500 medieval and modern icons from Southern Albania, as well as 1,500 other objects, of which some 200 icons and 50 metal objects are on display in this curious building. Once the most important Orthodox church of Korça, the Mitropolia church of Shën Gjergj (Saint George) was 'renovated' beyond recognition during totalitarian rule and opened as a museum in 1987 – you can still recognise bits of the church inside and next door in the newly re-established Shën Gjergj church. Starting with icons from the 14th century and proceeding in chronological order, most icons in the museum are from the 16th-19th centuries. Many are from Voskopoja, which in the 17th was one of the main centres for iconography in the Balkans. Orthodox art was highly regulated, and all icons had to be painted following precise instructions, with a fixed position prescribed for each saint; Mary can only be depicted in nine poses. Note the two icons of St. George that incorporate grisly martyrdom scenes, with Turks (representing evil of course) inflicting unimaginable cruelty upon unwitting Christians who immediately acquire haloes. The museum's highlight is the collection of icons by the 16th century Albanian master Onufri, which stand out for their vivid colours and wonderful detail. Onufri started his career in Berat (where there is a smaller but equally interesting icon museum dedicated to him) but made his finest works later in Gjirokastra. Phone ahead to make sure the museum is open, and to inform if the knowledgeable English-speaking icon experts are present. Postcards and an English-language booklet are for sale at the entrance.